We are now back in Kathmandu. We got in mid-afternoon today, but for a while we weren't sure if we were going to make it. We got into a very rainy Lukla (probably just to prep us for London) to receive news that there had been no flights for 2 days. Shyam assured us that if flights were flying today, it wouldn't be a problem, because he had a friend at the airport....
We awoke today to sunny skies, and during our breakfast the first flights started arriving from Kathmandu. We made our way to the airport to find it packed with the backlog from the last 2 days. Shyam's friend was nowhere to be found, he was out of town on a family emergency, looks like we'd have to wait in line with the normal folks. Our stars were lucky and after 6 or so hours of waiting we got on the last flight for the day. The take off was even more adventurous than the landing in Lukla (remember the 12 dgree runway) Sitting at the top of it, you can see it drop off...and feel like shouting "Feel the Rhythm, Feel the Rhyme, come on boys its bobsled time!" and the your stomach jumps into your throat and you watch the plane get off the ground with what seems to be about 3 meters until the runway drops off a cliff. Disembarkation in Kathmandu was smooth and we got back to the hotel in one piece.
We all spent the afternoon enjoying the luxuries of Discovery Channel and hot showers and then ate went back to that New Orleans restaurant that we ate at at the beginning of the trip. MEAT for all!!! mmmm bacon cheese burgers (buffalo-burgers) Tomorrow Shyam has promised to take us shopping and hunt out the good deals on souvenirs.
Since leaving Namche we had a short hike to Monjo (we left later in the day, Dave's GI system doesn't like Namche, but we've made it back to civilization still supplied with ample TP. We both wish that you never have to experience rationing out your squares) and then a good hike to Lukla.
Last night in Lukla we had a bit of a farewell party with our guides and porters. Dave, our Nepali friends, and I brought down the house with the funniest rendition of Dead Puppies anyone has ever heard, there was food and drink and Nepali dancing, and good times all around.
Its been an amazing time, but I think we're all looking forward to getting back to the western world. Onward to adventures in London!
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Namche day 2
We awoke this morning to a knocking at our door, Shyam demanding our presence in the kitchen to finish cooking breakfast. This was a nice way to wake up after we had a night of going out for apple pie, checking on my patient, assessing the nightlife (and Rameshes involvement in it...), and an impromptu night hike. We got up dressed and were prepared to take over the kitchen at the cooks request, as the previous evening we re-hashed memories of Ron and I ordering hash browns for lunch... and lets just say it was a good thing we were at an outdoor patio... I'm sure the local wildlife enjoyed what was presented to us. Thus after that story we were asked and gladly accepted preparing everyones hash browns for breakfast. The cook was happy we joined him and showed him the western style of things. Everything was served shortly after seven and enjoyed by all, not a potato was left in sight. Breakfast was made even sweeter by brandied grape jelly appearing out of no where.
After breakfast a contingent of the group geared up and headed back into the hills to visit Khumjung. Khumjung is situated in a valley that yes, we had to go uphill both ways!! Thats right, uphill there and back. We can finally use the saying honestly. Tea was had by all in Kumjung in a small quaint tea house. We also passed a nice field...err airstrip on our way back to Namche. We feasted on lunch upon our return followed by Siesta's. The rest of our day has been filled with equipment and personal hygiene maintenance along with resting up for tomorrows hike back to Phakding.
Looking forward to touring London;
The boys
After breakfast a contingent of the group geared up and headed back into the hills to visit Khumjung. Khumjung is situated in a valley that yes, we had to go uphill both ways!! Thats right, uphill there and back. We can finally use the saying honestly. Tea was had by all in Kumjung in a small quaint tea house. We also passed a nice field...err airstrip on our way back to Namche. We feasted on lunch upon our return followed by Siesta's. The rest of our day has been filled with equipment and personal hygiene maintenance along with resting up for tomorrows hike back to Phakding.
Looking forward to touring London;
The boys
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Return to Namche
We are back in Namche Bazaar, for today and tomorrow. It was been an interesting couple of days. On our way back from the internet cafe in Dingboche, we ran into Ian, a solo british trekker we have befriended along the way. He recounted his adventures from Gorak Shep, a day behind us, and had complaints of chest pain. Dave raided our teams medical supplies and the two of us made our way to the lodge he was staying at, feeling like we were back at HSR on an emergency run. While Dave was treating Ian, another girl who had come from tengboche overheard he was a medic and asked him to take a look at her friend, who was not doing so well. Long story short, Dave spent the night at that lodge treating two patients, Ian was Heli-evac'ed in the morning and we picked up a couple more trekkers during the 2 days it took two nurse the other patient back to health.
We stayed at Pangboche last night, which looks a little like a swiss mountain village. It was one of the first clear nights we've had, so after dinner, Dave and I sat out and watched the stars come out, and lightening some of the liquid weight our porters have been carrying.
Today's hike saw completely different weather from when we last passed this way and we were rewarded with a great view of Everest from Tengboche. (Some people in the group had trouble identifying the peak...it's a little tricky to remember the mountain profiles)
Tomorrow we'll likely hike up to Khumjung and the very swanky Everest View Hotel. If we pool our resources we might even be able to get a cup of tea from there.
Thanks for the comments, and thanks to Dad for his updates from the Canadian end.
Peach
We stayed at Pangboche last night, which looks a little like a swiss mountain village. It was one of the first clear nights we've had, so after dinner, Dave and I sat out and watched the stars come out, and lightening some of the liquid weight our porters have been carrying.
Today's hike saw completely different weather from when we last passed this way and we were rewarded with a great view of Everest from Tengboche. (Some people in the group had trouble identifying the peak...it's a little tricky to remember the mountain profiles)
Tomorrow we'll likely hike up to Khumjung and the very swanky Everest View Hotel. If we pool our resources we might even be able to get a cup of tea from there.
Thanks for the comments, and thanks to Dad for his updates from the Canadian end.
Peach
Monday, May 18, 2009
Notes from the Lads
Namaste and Good Victoria Day morning, all,
Dan’s dad here again.
The lads have sent a note early this morning via e-mail and have asked me to post it. They sent both accounts below as one e-mail note. Sound like they are having a fine time.
JP
May 16
This afternoon marks a momentous occasion and all of you are welcome to follow our example and have a "wee" nip of whatever you fancy … in a word "Everest". We completed today our plans to visit Everest and meet some of the well known climbers/summiteers -- Dave Hahn among them.
Backing up to when we last wrote. We left Dingboche early, enroute to Dughla, and made it in a blistering 2 hours. That morning we were lucky enough to add Island Peak, Peak 38, Lhotse, Makalu and Pumori to our list of peaks that we have seen. We enjoyed a quick lunch while we planned our attack on Awi Peak. It was a good, scrambly peak, with a lot more snow up top than anticipated. 200ft from the top, the footing got too iffy and we made the responsible decision as group guides and turned back. We were all pretty proud of the climb though. Yesterday we had an easy hike to Lobuche, followed by a quick visit to the Italian High Altitude Research Pyramid. We seem to have attracted quite the posse of trekkers. It’s nice to fill the teahouses with friends and feel like we own the place for the night. This morning we got an early start to Gorak Shep, then continued onto EBC after a snack. It was gorgeous, but it was probably one of the toughest hikes we have done. Tomorrow is Kala Patthar and then towards the Cho La Pass - conditions pending. Mike and Shyam have been doing a good job of coming up with alternative routes if needed.
On a different note, everyone reports that as we gain altitude their dreams become more and more bizarre. We figure it’s only a matter of time before the two of us have the same dream simultaneously.
Signed....The cheese
May 18
3:30 am came far too quickly yesterday. We both wondered what the point of leaving so early was. We left Gorak Shep just after 4am. It was foggy out and the climb (up Kala Pattar - 5550m) started steeply. As the light increased we got a fleeting glimpse of Everest through the fog. This inspired us to continue on our quest for the peak. Loose footing, winds, the damp morning air, and snow were among the obstacles along the way. Our numbers diminished as the altitude and weather took its toll on the group. In the end, when the summit was finally reached, we Canadians and Ron, our American friend, stood tall with our guides staring outwards towards our reward. The sky was clear, the sun’s rays showing all details of the Himalayan giants previously hidden by lower peaks. Smiles were beaming, congratulations all around, but no words, for words were unable to do justice to the accomplishment and scene. We took the necessary pictures and took in all the peaks we have seen along the way magnificently reaching through the clouds. After a quick breakfast we headed down to Dingboche, where today we enjoyed a well deserved rest day in the warm sun.
Signing off we are not going to forget our nation’s holiday... and its traditions.
The Intrepid Himalayan Travellers
Dan’s dad here again.
The lads have sent a note early this morning via e-mail and have asked me to post it. They sent both accounts below as one e-mail note. Sound like they are having a fine time.
JP
May 16
This afternoon marks a momentous occasion and all of you are welcome to follow our example and have a "wee" nip of whatever you fancy … in a word "Everest". We completed today our plans to visit Everest and meet some of the well known climbers/summiteers -- Dave Hahn among them.
Backing up to when we last wrote. We left Dingboche early, enroute to Dughla, and made it in a blistering 2 hours. That morning we were lucky enough to add Island Peak, Peak 38, Lhotse, Makalu and Pumori to our list of peaks that we have seen. We enjoyed a quick lunch while we planned our attack on Awi Peak. It was a good, scrambly peak, with a lot more snow up top than anticipated. 200ft from the top, the footing got too iffy and we made the responsible decision as group guides and turned back. We were all pretty proud of the climb though. Yesterday we had an easy hike to Lobuche, followed by a quick visit to the Italian High Altitude Research Pyramid. We seem to have attracted quite the posse of trekkers. It’s nice to fill the teahouses with friends and feel like we own the place for the night. This morning we got an early start to Gorak Shep, then continued onto EBC after a snack. It was gorgeous, but it was probably one of the toughest hikes we have done. Tomorrow is Kala Patthar and then towards the Cho La Pass - conditions pending. Mike and Shyam have been doing a good job of coming up with alternative routes if needed.
On a different note, everyone reports that as we gain altitude their dreams become more and more bizarre. We figure it’s only a matter of time before the two of us have the same dream simultaneously.
Signed....The cheese
May 18
3:30 am came far too quickly yesterday. We both wondered what the point of leaving so early was. We left Gorak Shep just after 4am. It was foggy out and the climb (up Kala Pattar - 5550m) started steeply. As the light increased we got a fleeting glimpse of Everest through the fog. This inspired us to continue on our quest for the peak. Loose footing, winds, the damp morning air, and snow were among the obstacles along the way. Our numbers diminished as the altitude and weather took its toll on the group. In the end, when the summit was finally reached, we Canadians and Ron, our American friend, stood tall with our guides staring outwards towards our reward. The sky was clear, the sun’s rays showing all details of the Himalayan giants previously hidden by lower peaks. Smiles were beaming, congratulations all around, but no words, for words were unable to do justice to the accomplishment and scene. We took the necessary pictures and took in all the peaks we have seen along the way magnificently reaching through the clouds. After a quick breakfast we headed down to Dingboche, where today we enjoyed a well deserved rest day in the warm sun.
Signing off we are not going to forget our nation’s holiday... and its traditions.
The Intrepid Himalayan Travellers
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Made it to EBC
Namaste, all.
Dan's dad posting here.
Well, it looks like there have been some alterations to the pre-trek plan. We have got a little info from Mary's posting on Mike's blog. The group has successfully travelled to Everest Base Camp (5364m) and had tea and apple pie at the 'bakery' set up by some Sherpas at EBC - probably the highest bakery in the world at about 17,400 or so.
They will not be able to head over the Cho La (a high pass - 5330m)) to the west since the recent snow in the area has put this route out of condition. So, they have turned and are returning down the valley. They may head east from Dingboche towards the Chunkung area or they may head back towards Namche Bazaar and try to reach the Gokyo Lakes area from the south instead of reaching them by crossing the Cho La.
Some of the group were able to get up Kala Pattar (5440m), a small mountain which always was the high point of the whole trip. From there, they would have had excellent views of Everest (which one cannot see from the base camp.)
Too bad they could not complete their intended route, but that is something that one must accept in the mountains; weather and conditions dictate the decisions for experienced people. If the pass was out of condition, following the adage that "it's easier to stay out of trouble than to get out of troouble" becomes paramount. One needs to be prepared to turn back if the conditions, the weather, or the health of a group member is doubtful, whether in the Rockies or the Himalayas. The mountains will always be there; the key is to make sure that you are so you can return later.
There should be increased internet access soon, so the lads should be posting in the near future. If we get any information, I'll pass it along.
Cheers
JP
Dan's dad posting here.
Well, it looks like there have been some alterations to the pre-trek plan. We have got a little info from Mary's posting on Mike's blog. The group has successfully travelled to Everest Base Camp (5364m) and had tea and apple pie at the 'bakery' set up by some Sherpas at EBC - probably the highest bakery in the world at about 17,400 or so.
They will not be able to head over the Cho La (a high pass - 5330m)) to the west since the recent snow in the area has put this route out of condition. So, they have turned and are returning down the valley. They may head east from Dingboche towards the Chunkung area or they may head back towards Namche Bazaar and try to reach the Gokyo Lakes area from the south instead of reaching them by crossing the Cho La.
Some of the group were able to get up Kala Pattar (5440m), a small mountain which always was the high point of the whole trip. From there, they would have had excellent views of Everest (which one cannot see from the base camp.)
Too bad they could not complete their intended route, but that is something that one must accept in the mountains; weather and conditions dictate the decisions for experienced people. If the pass was out of condition, following the adage that "it's easier to stay out of trouble than to get out of troouble" becomes paramount. One needs to be prepared to turn back if the conditions, the weather, or the health of a group member is doubtful, whether in the Rockies or the Himalayas. The mountains will always be there; the key is to make sure that you are so you can return later.
There should be increased internet access soon, so the lads should be posting in the near future. If we get any information, I'll pass it along.
Cheers
JP
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Dingboche - 4410, m
Peach writing from Dingboche.
Here we are where internet time is a whopping 20 Rs/ min. We are here instead of Pheriche because Pheriche is a hole. 3 days ago we left namche for a long 6-ish hour hike to Tengboche. About 1.5 hours in it started pouring on us, shortly after, turning to sleet. We had lunch at Phunki Tenga, where the rain had stopped. after lunch we began the 500 m climb up to tengboche, through thick fog. the tea house was very busy, with many familiar faces from the trail. The next morning we awoke to several inches of fresh snow, and near white out conditions. Dave and I felt right at home. The snow stopped mid morning, and the clouds opened up to give a fantastic view of ama dablam. We passed through Pangboche and Shormare, and crossed the treeling shortly after lunch, arriving in Dingboche late afternoon yesterday. This morning we took a quick acclimatization hike. After the hike we ordered lunch and had a team meeting. Mike proposed an itinerary change. Tomorrow we head to Dughla, halfway to Lobuche. Dave and I proposed an attempted hike up nearby Awi Peak for tomorrow as well. Our guide Shyam was doubtful because he had never done the hike, but agreed to go if Dave, myself and him teamed up to guide it with any who wished to join us. All mutually agreed to this plan. We also received news that cho la might be impassable due to the recent snow. all we can do now is stay warm for the rest of the afternoon and keep hydrated. Dave is back to full health except for a nagging cough.
Here we are where internet time is a whopping 20 Rs/ min. We are here instead of Pheriche because Pheriche is a hole. 3 days ago we left namche for a long 6-ish hour hike to Tengboche. About 1.5 hours in it started pouring on us, shortly after, turning to sleet. We had lunch at Phunki Tenga, where the rain had stopped. after lunch we began the 500 m climb up to tengboche, through thick fog. the tea house was very busy, with many familiar faces from the trail. The next morning we awoke to several inches of fresh snow, and near white out conditions. Dave and I felt right at home. The snow stopped mid morning, and the clouds opened up to give a fantastic view of ama dablam. We passed through Pangboche and Shormare, and crossed the treeling shortly after lunch, arriving in Dingboche late afternoon yesterday. This morning we took a quick acclimatization hike. After the hike we ordered lunch and had a team meeting. Mike proposed an itinerary change. Tomorrow we head to Dughla, halfway to Lobuche. Dave and I proposed an attempted hike up nearby Awi Peak for tomorrow as well. Our guide Shyam was doubtful because he had never done the hike, but agreed to go if Dave, myself and him teamed up to guide it with any who wished to join us. All mutually agreed to this plan. We also received news that cho la might be impassable due to the recent snow. all we can do now is stay warm for the rest of the afternoon and keep hydrated. Dave is back to full health except for a nagging cough.
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